Ash Meadows

Date:	November 4th, 2000
Destination:	Ash Meadows
Duration:	Day trip (9 hours)
Departure Point:	Westwood
Weather:	Clear and mild
Adventurers:	10 (David, Ted, Angie, Amy, Mike, Andre, Hector, Eric, Colin, Joe)
Vehicles:	3

David, Ted, Angie, Amy, Mike, Andre, Hector, Eric

Summary:

A current bout of mild weather combined with a forecast for cold weather in the near future, prompted us to adventure forth on another miniQuest while the good weather lasts. As we were researching where to go, we stumbled upon information for Devil's Hole and Ash Meadows. The area boasted of gigantic dunes, desert springs, exotic wildlife, and Devil's Hole. That settled it, Ash Meadows was the destination for this trip.

Short movie of trip [not narrated, so best viewed after reading this page]

 

Armagosa

A crow watches our every move.

We head out around 8:30am and go north on US95 till we reach Armagosa. We stop to fill up the gallon or so used to get this far. After the previous trip (13 hours and about 13,000 miles) we were a bit wary of letting the gas tank get below full.

While there we see a small replica tourist trap jail. It is a short few miles from Armagosa to reach the giant sand dunes. 

 

 

Armagosa Sand Dunes

   

 

 

 

 

 

Here we are approaching the dunes. The dune field is dominated by "big dune" (clearly seen in the  left photo. Ted wastes no time in climbing up the dune face. The rest of take the easier path by walking up along the ridge. [The color of the sand is actually much closer to white. These pictures have been saturated to improve visibility.]

The dunes are visible from quite a distance away. The dirt road leading to them is soft and full of bumps. Mike warns us not to get too close to the dunes. It seems on a previous trip, Mike had his vehicle sink into the sand and almost got stuck.

Everyone eventually makes it to the top of the hill. The sun was at the perfect angle to cast long shadows down the slope of the dune.

Ted rushes to the top of the first dune. The rest of us eventually make it to the top as well. Once there, we can see that the dune we climbed is actually one of the smaller ones. A much taller dune is near, but even that dune doesn't approach the height of the big dune in the center of the sea of sand.

Infrared photo of the dunes

Dunes tend to have one steep side. Hector and Mike decide to run down the steep side. I decide to climb the nearby taller dune. On the way up I spot a dune ant. The hike is rough, but once at the top, the view is great. While there, I snap an infrared photo. The effect is creepy with the sand white and the sky black.

A bird of prey watches us from the top of a power line pole.

As we were heading back to the vehicles, some ATVs showed up and were racing over the baby dunes. The riders were having fun, but it was time for us to continue our fun toward Ash Meadows.

 

 

Ash Meadows

Ash Meadows Over 30 springs and seeps support a rich diversity of endangered fish, invertebrates, and plants. Ash Meadows contains over 20 plants and animal species found nowhere else in the world. All these species have adapted over thousands of years to a harsh environment. They can survive in thermal springs or in salty, parched soils. Why Preserve Species? Every wild plant and animal gives something special to our world. Some provide food, and others we haven't decided if they are worth saving, but better safe than sorry. Mesquite groves at Ash Meadows support southwestern birds, such as the Verdin, Crissal Thrasher, and Lucy's Warbler. The trees provide shade, nesting places, and an abundant supply of insects for the birds to feed their nestlings. These songbirds help control insects, including beautiful butterflies. Other birds, like quail and sparrows, disperse a variety of seeds, including mesquite, weeds, and flowers. Large tracts of mesquite woods have been lost to agriculture and development. As a result, many birds that depend upon this habitat have declined in numbers throughout the Southwest. By preserving these mesquite groves, we help the birds. Crystal Spring feeds a small, but important stream that is home to a variety of wildlife. Species such as the Ash Meadows pupfish and gumplant rely on this constant source of water - a rare necessity in this desert habitat. Ash Meadows Pupfish eat the algae, toads lay their eggs in the pools, birds such as the Marsh Wrens, Song Sparrows, and mice find shelter in the streamside vegetation. Hawks and coyotes prey on these small animals. People, too, are drawn to this beautiful place, and the opportunity to watch a greater variety of wildlife. Fire and burial pits in the sand dunes tell us that ancient people lived here more than 1200 years ago. Their lifestyle centered around - and depended upon - the abundant resources here. Not only where the people attracted to the springs, but the dunes and marshes provided abundant plant and animal foods. Mesquite and ricegrass grew well in the sand dunes, which rapidly absorb and store occasional rain, releasing it slowly. Ancient peoples also burned marshes to gather mice and other animals, such as water birds, for food. From the styles of arrowheads and pottery found at Ash Meadows, archaeologists know that Anasazi people, and later Paiutes, once lived here. Archaeological investigations also tell us how the climate and habitat changed over time. Ancient packrat nests found in nearby hills reveal juniper seeds. The presence of these trees at a much lower elevation than they grow today indicates that the climate then was much cooler and wetter than it is today. Dune and marsh excavations also reveal layers of peat moss - further proof of a wetter past. You are in the Mojave Desert, which receives, on average, only four inches of rain per year. Yet here you stand before a clear spring which discharges 2600 gallons of water per minute. Crystal Spring is one of 30 springs and seeps on Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge that together discharge over 10,000 gallons of water every minute. Why is all this water here and where does it come from? During the last glacial era (12,000-20,000 years ago), much of the southwestern United States was covered by large lakes interconnected by rivers. After the climate began warming, the glaciers receded. The lakes and rivers slowly dried up, leaving only springs as habitat for aquatic species. The green mats on the bottom of the spring are algae, the pupfish's main food. Algae also helps determine the fish's life cycle. During the summer, algae grows in abundance. This provides pupfish with food energy needed to reproduce. In winter, the algae's growth slows. With less to eat, the pupfish population declines. Their numbers increase when the seasonal cycle repeats itself.

Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge

The entrance to Ash Meadows is clearly marked. From the entrance we followed the map of Ash Meadows we had lifted from the Internet earlier. We entered from the west side and decided to follow the roads by turning left at every opportunity.

Peterson Reservoir

Peterson Reservoir. This shore consisted of thick matted plants. The center of the reservoir is filled with reeds.

The first stop was Peterson Reservoir. It is hidden behind some vegetation and is not visible from the road. This reservoir is very large and is covered with reeds and coots.

Hiking further up the shore reveals a true beach. The shoreline we first discovered was actually a thick mat of dead vegetation.

Ted discovers an ancient artifact.

Ted discovered an ancient artifact along the shore. It looked like a rifle bullet to me, but who's to say. In addition to the artifact, Ted also discovers a green shiny beetle bug. It didn't look like an endangered species bug to me, so we continued north toward Fairbanks Spring.

Fairbanks Spring

The roads are narrow and slightly raised above the level of the marsh water.

It turns out that Fairbanks Spring is covered with vegetation and the marshy field it fills is quite large. The surrounding area is very mushy. This spring marks the edge of Carson Slough. Imagine reeds as far as the eye could see. That is what it looked like.

Many of the trees are burned and the ground is covered with ash. I guess that is why it is called Ash Meadows.

The area was littered with the remains of burnt trees and ash. The name Ash Meadows is rather appropriate.

Rodger's and Longstreet Spring

Rodger's Spring is a circular clear pool with fresh water feeding in from the bottom.

Further down the road were two other springs. These were more traditional of desert springs. They were a hemispherical depression of clear water with sand boiling up at the bottom of the pool indicating where the fresh water was coming from.

These springs were ringed with plant and animal wildlife. The wildlife included plants of one type or another, frogs, insects, and birds.

Strange birdlike engraving on a white chalk monolith.

Also near the spring was a stone drawing on a white chalk monolith. The marking was of a bird of some kind. Where did this marking come from? Was it ancient or recent? We may never know, but we will continue to look for clues as the trip proceeds.

Crystal Spring

Crystal Spring

Only a mile or two down the road is the ranger station. We stop there to eat lunch and visit Crystal Spring. This spring is obviously the showcase of Ash Meadows. The path to the spring is a boardwalk that ends at a railed observation deck over the spring.

Crystal Spring is large and deep. The outflow feeds a reed lined stream. The water is crystal clear revealing pupfish and algae in abundance.

Sign marking the location of Devil's Hole

Devil's Hole

Beyond Crystal Spring is Devil's Hole. This is a hidden pool that is actually part of a large submerged cave system. The pool was fenced off from access. There also were some strange antennae nearby. I figure the place was under surveillance.

A sign gave a bit of reason why this pool was fenced off from access.

View of Devil's Hole. It is a dark pool in a deep crevasse

The world's entire population of Devils Hole pupfish - Cyprinodon diabolis - lives in this small, hidden pool. the pool is actually the mouth of a water-filled cave system. In summer, when nutrients are abundant and when pupfish eggs hatch, there may be as many as 500-600 pupfish here. In winter the population drops to 200 or fewer.

Since we couldn't get close enough to see pupfish, we didn't stay long. After some debate it was decided to head back to Las Vegas by way of Pahrump.

 

The Return Trip

Mount Charleston as viewed from Pahrump valley The return trip passed through Pahrump - heart of the new old west

On the way toward Las Vegas, we pass through Pahrump valley. From there we could see the backside of Mount Charleston. The view of this snowcapped mountain quite majestic from here.

While in Pahrump, we stopped at a fireworks store. It was filled with interesting items. Eric found a couple of very interesting items.

 

Sign informing us of wildlife (probably turtles) in the area

The sun was setting as we finished the journey back to Las Vegas. We were on the lookout for wildlife, but it was getting dark fast.

Wild burros

Fortunately, before it became too dark, we discovered some wild burros! They were undisturbed by our photographic attentions and just sauntered away.

We took their cue and sauntered back to Las Vegas. So ends another successful miniQuest trip.

The End